Dr.Z's do seem to kick all sorts of ass.

I wish we had them fancier type stores down 'round these parts so I could try my hand at one.

I've played a few Zs there before. They are a dealer. I don't remember which ones though save for the Prescription 2x12 combo I tried a Fulltone Tube Tape Echo with. That was loud and ly. I was more concerned with the guitars and effects I was fooling with versus the Zs themselves at the time. I do remember being able to make them AC30ish and sounded glorious with Teleblasters.

I remember the Prescription combo had the H30/V30 combination in it.

Eh, snaxo, another one that seems to be a similar topology is the Tophat Club Deluxe. They are another one that is not cheap. But the circuit is supposed to basically be a Matchless Lightning(er... AC30 Top Boost) wif an added mid control and some other bits of jiggery, into a pair or quad of 6V6s.

Plus, they imply good taste in fashion.

Not that you need help in that department

I remember when i was a kid, my dad had my great grandfather's old top hat in a hatbox on a shelf. That thing was so badass. I really wonder where it wound up. It definitely isn't here any more.

I still have the sweet tuxedo that went with it though.

Needs a serious bit of drycleaning though these days.

Is this one of the new ones with the standby switch and is valve rectified? If it is then leave the standby on all the time as they arent great for tube rectifiers. I've read that the CC model has suffered a lot of rectifier failure because of this.

Ever considered power scaling? I'll get you that power tubes clipping tone at lower volumes. I've never used an amp with it but my next build is going to have it.

Yeah, it's a mid-'90s Korg-era RI. Standby and tube rectified. I do the not-using-the-standby-switch thing. I had a conversation with Steve Masucci (The Lost Patrol/studiod00d mentioned in this month's TapeOp) about that a couple weeks ago when we did a few shows together. He was appalled I wasn't using the standby on the AC30, but he's a Fender guy. I had to 'splain.

I swapped out the rectifier tube last year as well- Sovtek that isn't an actual 5AR4 but is some Russian thing that's not up to US/UK spec.

[EDIT] That being the one I replaced, because it died and took a fuse with it. [/EDIT]

How's power scaling different, functionality and tone-wise, than using an attenuator?

Someone on TGP, I think, recommended me that.

Used prices seem eminently reasonable and even new it's not totally out of line. Not that I'm looking to buy new maplification unless I have to. My cheap bastardy is... relative. My options here are mostly corksniffer maps, and quite honestly I've payed more for Marshall and Mesa than I would a used low-watt boutique combo or head, so it's really not a big deal.

Even a Matchless is still cheaper than my co-guitarist's Diezel/Mills rig. That high-gain shizz is bank, yo.

Power scaling generally reduces the operating voltage of the amp, or a portion of it. Basically, reducing the output by dropping the voltages in select parts of the amp, the circuit can be operated in a close to "normal" manner, just quieter. So the general response and EQ of the amp won't change so much, unlike what you would get with an attenuator.

Depending on what type of powerscaling, it can add either a medium amount(like the VVR style) or a large amount(like the London Power kits) of complexity to the amp. Which of course can mean more fiddly bits to act up in a gigging amp.

I have been meaning to try the VVR style in something for a while. Next time i can afford to build an amp, i will probably play with that. I also want to try a "good" PPIMV, like the lar/mar style also, as i like the idea of as few parts as possible for getting good, reliable, useful results.

The downside of powerscaling vs. attenuator is basically solely in its invasiveness, and whether you want to have that type of complexity in the circuit. The circuit needs to be cut up and modified to install any type of powerscaling, and it is generally more involved than most PPIMV installs.

Other than that, soundwise, the word on the street is that there is little contest, and that powerscaling is generally the superior sounding method. It doesn't dull the amp, and if done properly, shouldn't change the feel or response of it much either. Certainly not as much as an attenuator, anyhow.

Duly noted, sir.

The attenuator is cool, but it's... It's not the same. Even the very tweaky Weber of joey's (that I still haven't been able to get to the post office when they're actually open) with the variable high/low frequency attenuation (this is nice) and all the switches and whatnot.

It's not as if I'm trying to knock the thing down to bedroom volume; we're talking "gigging rock band" levels here... it's just that Big Loud Clean Maps are... well, loud and clean.

Jamming on some Zs is definitely in my near future. I know I like them to begin with.

Also worth checking out just for knowledge porpoises, if the place is a Z dealer, try out the Z Air Brake. Supposed to be a pretty decent attenuator for just taking it down a notch or two(it has a "bedroom" setting, but don't expect much from that). Various nerds seem to prefer that to a lot of other attenuator styles. How much of this is due to the Ken Fischer lineage of the thing, who knows. Worth trying out if they have one though, for general reconnaissances.

If I'm playing at home, it's an acoustic or a Pod --> monitors. Or a bass or synth, just as likely. Probably a synth. So the "bedroom volume" thing is probably unnecessary anyhow.

I'll call and ask 'em beforehand and bring the AC30 with if so. Just, y'know, to satisfy my curiosity. Go in the back room, turn up and blast. That shouldn't be an issue.

Power scaling would require adding a board and a pot to the amp. For a low wattage/voltage amp which is cathode biased its doesnt look too hard to make and I'll be experimenting with the circuit thats in merlin blencowes new book. The difficulty with adding one is that you need to play with the power supply nodes. Usually the filtering and power supply for the preamp comes off the screen RC filter but this voltage and the plate voltage are being varied by the power scaling so instead you need to tap it straight off the reservoir cap which is the one straight after the rectifier which means upping the droppring resistors to get to the required voltage and a little bit more faff

The easiest and least invasive way to do this in my mind is to do the filtering on the powerscaling board as that way all you need to do is remove a few components off the main PCB and use flying leads. I dont know how much space there is going spare inside one of these amps so it might get a little tricky.

As for the pot I'd remove the standby from the circuit and bang it in there if there is space for a 24mm pot.

Thinking about it all you'd need to do is pull a few resistors from the PCB and have flying leads.

Currently leaning toward a Z, depending on which I like, or taking a chance on a Tophat Club Deluxe or Valvetech VAC 25. Speaker-wise, I'm unsure; I could go with the Blue + Greenback combo I've been rawking for a while. That appeals to me, but I don't know how it would work with the particular amps in question.

Expect an AC30 appearing in various Spam threads in the near future. Though I'd rather move it through CL locally, as it's a bit on the weighty side.

I think I'll toss some JJs in there for powertoobs and be done with it. Not the greatest, but reliable for whomever wants the thing.

If you are going to go to lower wattage, you might wish to also go for higher efficiency as well. The G12H30 is a pretty awesome speaker. Like a less dark greenback(to my perceptions) and a fair bit louder to boot.

Hmm... The G12H30 to my ears is definitely brighter than a Greenie, when I've played through 'em. Bigger bottom, too.

Checking the efficiency on Celestion's site, it appears the Blue and the H30 are both nominally 100db, and I do still have a spare Blue, albeit in need of a recone.

I'm curious how a Blue/H30 mix would sound...

Or maybe something a bit more old-school Fender-flavored for the other speaker, really go all-out on the bastard hybrid thing.

Like a Jensen or something? Aside from the old JBLs, not too many of the typical fender-used speakers have struck me as terribly efficient/loud. They are great with a 100w design like a Twin or Showman, but mainly because they help keep things quieter. I feel like they are also a part of the reason that some folks can gig almost-cranked Bassmen. They drop the volume down slightly. Basically, the right kind of attenuator: regular old inefficiency.

Another reason i like 10" speaker concept with louder amps. And come to think of it, the 2x15 concept as well.

Noted re: Jensens and the like. I'm not at all familiar with the specs. The JBLs I would assume would be loud and bright.

The C12N is rated @ 98.4db according to their web site; I do believe a friend of mine still has a couple of these kicking about he's not using.